Kayaking around Phi Phi Ley Island

The best way to see Phi Phi Ley is by sea kayak. The trip can range from Beginner to Intermediate, depending on how you do it. The only intermediate level kayaking is done when kayaking across the channel from Phi Phi Don to Phi Phi Ley. Especially in the low season with higher waves, this can be quite adventuruous: I was treated to an unforgettable experience when I was trapped in the cave during an unexpected storm and spent several hours "talking" with the nest gatherers and sharing dinner with them (talking consisted of drawing pictures in the dirt since we didn't have any shared language); however you will be really fine in high season when the weather is good and seas are nearly always very calm.

For beginners, rent sea kayaks from Phi Phi Paradise resort (about $10 a day for a double) and then hire a longtail boatman to ferry you and your kayak to Maya Bay around 7am (another $10, though you can bargain him down to $5 if you're good). If you're a strong kayaker, you can kayak back. Otherwise, tell him to pick you up at Viking Cave around 4pm.

Spend an hour or so enjoying Maya Bay, as you'll likely have it to yourself at this hour. If the seas were calm on your way in, paddle out the bay, turn left, and head around the tip of the island and up the other side. If the seas were rough, drag your kayak on the trail heading inland from the beach and you'll eventually come to a "hole-in-the-wall" where you can push your kayak through to the leeward side of the island where the seas will be calm.

Turn left and kayak up the island, enjoying views down to the coral reefs under you. Eventually you'll come to a bay opening to your left. Enter this bay. Here in the entrance is some of the finest and most colorful snorkelling I've ever experienced. In fact, the fish were so prolific that when I dropped a cracker in the water it literally boiled and fish jumped INTO my kayak!

You can paddle all the way into the deep heart of Phi Phi Ley in this bay, called Ao Lo Dalam, but the snorkelling gets worse the farther in you go. A deep blue pool for swimming awaits you within.

Back to the open sea and hang a left and you'll eventually see the large dock at Viking Cave. Pull up here and the nest gatherers will help you tether your kayaks and scoop you up onto the large dock. You may be asked for a small admission fee (maybe 5-10B) and explore the cave (don't forget the flashlight!), keeping in mind that this is their religion and if you are asked to keep out of any area, please do.

From here it's a line-of-sight kayak back to Long Beach (it will take you an hour unless you're very strong). If the seas are very rough, it's probably a good idea to bargain with the nest gatherers to ferry you back to the beach, or just wait for your boatman if you arranged to have him pick you up.

Links of Interest:

• Phi Phi Island kayaking information and image galleries
• more activities on Phi Phi: snorkeling in the Phi Phi Islands